Black Diamond ATC Guide Reviews
Black Diamond's ATC Guide Belay Device is already worthy of any climber's arsenal, but they've made it even better for alpinists and crag-stars alike. It still transcends the tube/auto-blocking category, allowing for a standard belay as well as belaying one or two climbers off anchors. Black Diamond upgraded it with machined windows for a lighter weight, and the larger auto-block release accepts smaller carabiners for a smoother and more dependable operation.
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My go to belay device
There are a million reviews on this device already, so I just want to add a short addition.I highly recommend anyone who wants to climb multi pitch to get this belay device. I've used it hundreds of times on everything from gym climbing to multi-pitch sport climbing. I don't really use it for belaying on Alpine climbs, as it's too slow. I use a carabineer instead.
This is my go to device for it's simplicity and effectiveness. The double tube allows for single or double rope climbing. The tube is designed for ropes as small as 8.0mm and as large as 11mm. I've personally only used ropes ranging from 8 to 9mm.
The guide mode is perfect from belaying off an anchor. I tend to only use this belay device. On multi pitch climbs I also carry a backup, just in case someone drops theirs. I did that once, and my ATC fell 300 feet to the ground. I retrieved it afterwards, and there was no signs of damage. These belay devices are light (80g) and strong. I highly recommend!!
Great All Around Device
This is always my go-to belay device. It's simple, lightweight, and versatile. I use it in the gym, on sport and trad routes, on multipitch, rappelling, everything. The ability to hang it off of an anchor and belay from the top is amazing and you almost never need to worry about rope size compatibility.My go to.
Facts:About $23.00
Weight: 64 g (2.3 oz)
accepts ropes from 7.7 to 11 mm
Likes:
I greatly appreciate the deep ribbing on the inside of the device. It provide a great amount of friction without the wear and tear on the rope.
The Black Diamond XP ATC. Paired with my 9.8 rope feels percent for top rope or leading.
I also appreciate that I can confidently use my ATC with diffrent sized ropes without feeling that its too tight or loose.
Dislikes:
Theres not one thing I dislike about this ATC.
My experiance:
I picked this bad boy up at my local REI as a beginner. I will always choose this one over any other belay/reppelle device. The simplicity of the device made it very easy to learn
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A great general multi pitch belay device. Also can use for ascending a rope if done properly. The orientation of the guide loop (loop on top of belay device) is side to side so it is oriented nicely when attached to your harness or master point with a carabiner.